How to store cigars properly

Good storage is the difference between a cigar that ages gracefully and one that dries out, cracks, or molds. It comes down to two numbers — and keeping them steady.

The two numbers that matter

A cigar is dried, fermented tobacco. Kept too dry, it becomes brittle, burns hot and fast, and loses its oils. Kept too wet, it burns unevenly, tastes muddled, and risks mold. The goal is to hold it in a narrow band where it stays supple and burns clean.

Why many collectors keep it drier than 70%

The old 70/70 rule (70°F, 70% RH) is a fine starting point, but a lot of experienced smokers store closer to 65% RH. Slightly drier cigars burn better, hold their shape, and are far less hospitable to mold and beetles. Fuller, oilier cigars tolerate a bit more humidity; delicate, thin-wrapper cigars often show best on the drier end.

Stability beats perfection

If you remember one thing: a steady number beats a perfect one. Cigars adjust to their environment slowly. Big swings — a humidor that reads 62% one week and 74% the next — force the tobacco to expand and contract, which flattens flavor and can crack wrappers. Pick a target in the 65–70% range and hold it there.

This is also why opening a humidor constantly, or storing it near a heat vent or sunny window, does more damage than being a couple points off your target.

Seasoning a new humidor

A new wooden humidor is bone dry. Drop cigars straight in and the cedar will wick moisture out of them for weeks. Season it first:

1. Put a calibrated hygrometer and a charged humidification device (or a high-RH humidity pack) inside.
2. Optionally wipe the interior cedar with a cloth dampened with distilled water — never tap water, which carries minerals and mold spores. Keep the cloth away from the lid's sealing edges and rim; wetting those can swell the wood and warp the humidor's seal, causing lasting humidity leaks.
3. Close it and wait one to two weeks, until it holds a stable reading in the mid-60s to low-70s without dropping fast.
4. Only then add cigars. Expect the humidity to dip as the cigars absorb moisture, then settle.

Mold vs. plume, and tobacco beetles

Mold is fuzzy, blue-green or white, often with a musty smell, and it can smear — it means conditions are too wet or too warm. Plume (bloom) is a fine, dust-like crystalline coating from the cigar's own oils; it's harmless and brushes off. When in doubt, lower the humidity and improve airflow.

Tobacco beetles lie dormant in leaf and hatch when it's warm and humid — above roughly 72°F and high RH. Keeping temperature down and humidity moderate is the best prevention. If you ever find a small pinhole and dust, freeze the affected cigars to stop an outbreak.

The one thing storage can't do for you

A well-kept humidor holds your cigars in perfect condition — but it can't tell you which ones are ready to smoke, or when a cigar has been resting long enough to hit its prime. That's invisible day to day. Recording when each cigar went into storage is the only way to know, which is exactly what cigar aging is about — and what CigarCabinet tracks for you automatically.

Frequently asked questions

Keep it at 65–70% RH. Many collectors settle around 65% for a firmer, slower-burning cigar and lower mold risk; 70% keeps cigars a touch softer. A steady 65% beats a number that swings between 60% and 75%.

Store cigars at about 70°F and 70% RH. It's a solid baseline, though many experienced collectors prefer slightly drier storage (around 65% RH) for a cleaner burn and to discourage mold and beetles.

Add a humidification device and a hygrometer, optionally wipe the cedar with distilled water, close it, and let it stabilize for one to two weeks before adding cigars — so the dry wood doesn't pull moisture out of them.

Yes, short term. An airtight container or zip bag with a two-way humidity pack (a "tupperdor") holds humidity well for a small collection or travel, as long as the seal is good and it's kept out of heat and sunlight.